Simply put, Oaxaca, Mexico is a land of diversity. When it comes to culture and birding there is no better, more lovely or hospitable place!
Oaxaca is home to 16 indigenous languages, a grand diversity of cuisines and a plethora of fine folk art. The terrain is greatly varied from tropical lowlands and savannah plains to arid interior valleys, high mountain cloud forests and cool pine and oak forests.
For birders, this diversity is made-to-order and the reason why this state, no bigger than Indiana, hosts about as many bird species (750!) as are found in the entire lower 48 states of the USA. This variety makes birding in Oaxaca particularly special. And if you combine that with the beautiful and varied landscape, the deep layers of human history and the richness of Oaxacan culture today, you have a combination for a very enriching journey.
Which is just what we hope this adventure will be for you. Our travels take us from the UNESCO World Heritage colonial city of Oaxaca to the stone steps of one of Mesoamerica’s great ancient ceremonial centers, Monte Alban. We’ll travel into a biosphere reserve with some of the densest cactus forests on the globe in search of the rare Military Macaw, explore hidden valleys, thick oak forests, thriving markets, pine covered mountain ridges, crumbling pyramids, small villages, meet rural artisans, farmers and cooks, and all along keep our eyes to the sky, on the lookout for some of those 750 species of birds flying around Oaxaca. |
Itinerary
(B, L, D) = breakfast, lunch, dinner included)
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In Oaxaca City |
Day 1, Sunday (D). Arrive in Oaxaca city in time for 6 PM orientation meeting at hotel. After introductions we head out for a dinner of Oaxacan cuisine. Evening in Oaxaca City.
Day 2, Monday (B,L,D). Our day begins with birding in the oak forests on the slopes above Oaxaca city. We’ll be looking for Blue Mockingbird, Ocellated Thrasher, Slaty Vireo, Dwarf Vireo, Golden Vireo, Crescent-chested Warbler, Hooded Yellowthroat, Oaxaca Sparrow, and Black-vented Oriole. Mid-morning we return to the city for some time in town and lunch. In the afternoon we explore the ruins of the ancient Zapotec city of Monte Alban, one of the biggest cities in pre-Hispanic Mesoamerica built on the top of a leveled-off mountain. Having explored the ruins we will continue to venture beyond, heading into the chaparral in search of Lesser Roadrunner, Dusky Hummingbird, Pileated Flycatcher, Boucard’s Wren, and Rufous-capped Warbler until sunset. Evening in Oaxaca City.
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The limestone canyon of Apoala |
Day 3, Tuesday (B,L,D).We depart Oaxaca this morning and head for the pine-oak forests above the Etla valley, birding up a creek through changing altitudes on the west slope of the Sierra Madre. We’ll look for Amethyst-throated Hummingbird, Bumblebee Hummingbird, Mountain Trogon, White-striped Woodcreeper, Dwarf Jay, Gray-barred Wren, and Russet Nightingale-thrush. Mid-day we travel out of the Oaxaca central valleys and the land of the Zapotecs into the ancient realm of the Mixtec kingdoms. Indeed, our backcountry road will take us to a place called Apoala, the mythical birthplace of the first Mixtecs, something of a Garden of Eden. Apoala is a village in a deep and narrow limestone canyon cut by a blue, cypress-lined creek with a beautiful waterfall, sun dappled boulder pools and bromeliad draped cliffs. This small village of log cabins, where avocado and apple trees grow side by side, will be our base camp for the next two nights. Evening in Apoala.
Days 4, Wednesday (B,L,D). Our day is spent birding and exploring Apoala. The creek runs right out the front door of our adobe cabins with the small village just beyond. While in Apoala we’ll have the opportunity to hike the waterfall trail, swim in the cold creek, as well as meet villagers who weave baskets and sombreros from the highland palm that grows here. There will also be time to simply gaze at the beauty of this spot. Evening in Apoala.
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Maguey |
Day 5, Thursday (B,L,D). Today we travel deep into rural Oaxaca over a spectacular dirt road that takes us through small villages of wheat and corn farmers, through a high, moist oak forest and then down and down a zigzagging road into a deep and wide valley that hosts some of the densest cactus forests on the planet. En route we’ll stop in the highland forests with binoculars in hand and see what we can discover among the branches and red and yellow flowering bromeliads. Time allowing we’ll do the same among the spires of the cactus. In the afternoon we’ll reach our destination, a one-horse village forgotten by time on the banks of a large, graceful desert river. This friendly and peaceful town will be our base camp for tomorrow’s expedition in search of the roost of the rare guacamaya. Evening in the adobe cabins of Quiotepec surrounded by the sultry air and cricket calls of a desert night.
Day 6, Friday (B,L,D). We are in the heart of the Tehuacán-Cuicatlán valley biosphere reserve, famous for its spectacular diversity in cactus and bats (though if you ask a Oaxacan, they’ll tell you it’s the mangos, limes, and heat that give this place its name!). It is also famous for the Military Macaw. The population and distribution of the Military Macaw has been decreasing over the past fifty years. The abundance of the Military Macaw has now decreased to less than 10,000 globally. This decrease is mostly due to deforestation and the capturing of wild birds for the pet trade industry. Military Macaws are now listed as Vulnerable on the 2006 IUCN Red List Category. A healthy and protected population of these macaws roosts in the steep and inaccessible side canyons of the Cuicatlán valley and biosphere reserve. In the day they fly high into the mountains to feed on nuts and fruits. Our hope today is to spot these beautiful birds at one of their common roosting sites. While we cannot guarantee that they’ll be there, the odds are good. We will head out to look for them at one of their common roosts as they awake and prepare to head out for a day’s foraging. It is roughly a 2-hour, uphill hike to get to the overlook from which we observe the birds. The climb is steep at parts. We begin in the dark of pre-dawn (you’ll need a headlamp) and return in the mid-morning heat- ahh, but it’s all downhill then. We will discuss the conditions before leaving. If there are folks who opt out they have the option of sleeping in, exploring the archeological zone of Quiotepec or wandering along the river with a guide. For those that take the hike, it is a fine adventure into the hinterlands of cactus forests and steep canyons. Returning from the morning adventure there will be time to head to the river for a dip and have a locally prepared lunch before we head on again. Our travels take us along the old federal highway, which used to be the main route to Oaxaca city. This afternoon we are heading beyond the city to the village of Teotitlan del Valle, which will be our base for the next three nights. Evening in Teotitlan.
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Teotitlan weavers |
Day 7, Saturday (B,L,D). The slopes and pond above Teotitlan provide for excellent birding and we’ll spend the morning here looking for Beautiful Hummingbird, Garnet-throated Hummingbird, Gray-breasted Woodpecker, Pine Flycatcher, Gray-collared Becard, Black Thrush, Aztec Thrush, Chestnut-sided Shrike-Vireo, Red Warbler, Golden-browed Warbler, Rufous-capped Brush-Finch, Collared Towhee, Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer, Bridled Sparrow, Audubon’s Oriole, and Black-headed Siskin. Then we head higher into the mountains to the sharp ridges where the pines and huge agaves grow at 8,000 feet and continue birding as we wander the landscape between mountain villages. We’ll stop midday at a cozy mountain eatery for some hot food and fresh tortillas. By late afternoon we’ll make our way back to the village of Teotilan and settle in for the night. Evening in Teotitlan.
Day 8, Sunday (B,L,D).Today we give the birds and binoculars a rest and dive into the rich world of culture in Oaxaca valley. It is Sunday, which means market day in nearby Tlacolula. This vibrant market has been going strong for hundreds and likely thousands of years. Zapotecs from all the surrounding villages of the valley come to buy, sell, gossip and people watch today. We’ll do the same! Afterwards we’ll head down valley to visit the old palaces of Mitla with their ornate and finely crafted stone fretwork and decorations. Come afternoon we’ll head back to our town of Teotitlan and explore it. This village is one of the biggest weaving villages in Mexico, with thousands of weavers working out of home workshops to create beautiful tapestries. We’ll visit with a couple of these weavers as well as learn about the natural dye process that a handful of weavers in the village are reviving. Evening in Teotitlan.
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The ancient ceremonial center of Mitla |
Day 9, Monday (B,L,D). We’ll begin our morning exploring the fields, cane thickets and shrub forest around the base of the Zapotec cliff fortress of Yagul. With any luck we’ll spot Dusky Hummingbirds, Gray-breasted Woodpeckers, Pileated Flycatchers, Boucard’s Wrens, White-throated Towhees and Bridled Sparrows. Later in the morning we’ll ascend to the ruins themselves to see the ancient palace, ball court, crumbling temples and mesa-top fortress. Late morning we’ll climb in our van and head back to Oaxaca city, closing the circle of our travels. The afternoon will be left open for exploring the city with or without a guide, as you wish before we gather for a final evening meal together. Evening in Oaxaca.
Day 10, Tuesday.You may arrange to depart at any time this morning. Taxis are readily available from the hotel to the airport.
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